Walking in the Casentino

Whether you enjoy long hikes or prefer a more leisurely stroll, Moggiona is an ideal base for walking. Since the Casentino area was designated a national park in 1991, new maps have been published, signage improved and footpaths better maintained, making walking in this part of Tuscany a delight.

The small town of Badia Prataglia, around 30 minutes’ drive from Moggiona, is the starting point for many superb forest walks. Monte Falterona (1,654 metres above sea level), a short distance beyond Stia, is famous for being the source of the river Arno and boasts spectacular views of the Apennines from its summit. The area around the monastery and hermitage of Camaldoli also offers plenty of impressive hiking options and nature trails.

If you are staying at Casa Teresina, there are some excellent walks you can do from Moggiona itself without the need to drive to a starting point – one of these is described below. We keep a selection of walking maps at the house.

Some good online resources are:

• the official website of the Parco Nazionale Foreste Casentinesi, where a large number of suggested walks are available (in Italian). GPS data is also provided

• Parks.it – a portal about Italian national parks, which describes some walks in English

Moggiona-Camaldoli circular walk

Time: allow 4-5 hours
Distance: 10.5 km
Height gain: around 500 metres

This walk takes you up to the cross that you can see at the top of the ridge from the terrace at Casa Teresina, then along the ridge and further up into the forest (to around 1,200 metres above sea level), before descending to the village of Camaldoli. From here, you can follow the road back to Moggiona – there isn’t normally much traffic. Proper walking boots are recommended; sticks/poles would be useful.

1. Leave Moggiona in the Poppi direction, passing the bar on the right and shop and ristorante Il Cedro on the left. After the junction with the main road, walk along the main road for around 2-3 minutes in the Poppi direction, until you see a footpath sign on the right. Take this path, which ascends steeply into the wood. The path is well marked with red and white stripes painted on trees along the route, but if in any doubt keep right.

2. After around 20 minutes you will reach a small clearing before entering a particularly steep wooded section from which you will emerge into the open to see some rocks – and the cross – on the right. If you have a head for heights you can scramble up the rocks to the cross to get a spectacular view of Moggiona below.

3. Otherwise, continue to follow the red-and-white marked footpath, which undulates and follows the ridge for a couple of kilometres. Occasional breaks in the trees provide spectacular views of the valley on your left. Eventually the path descends slightly to reach a small road/track, which you should cross to take the path directly opposite – route no. 72 towards Croce Gaggi.

4. The path continues to ascend steeply into the forest. In a few minutes you will reach a junction at which you should continue to the right following the sign ‘incrocio 72-94’, ignoring the path towards Asqua in the other direction. Soon afterwards you will reach another junction where you should keep left and upwards and avoid the path to the right signposted Montanino.

5. After ascending further, with more spectacular views towards Pratovecchio and Stia on the left, you will reach the junction at La Rota, where there is a sign explaining the history of the forest. Here you also cross the Linea Gotica, which marked the Germans’ last major line of defence towards the end of World War 2. Continue to ascend from here following path 72 and the red and white stripes, ignoring any other unmarked turnings.

6. After a while the path starts to descend – quite steeply in places – before eventually coming to a road. Turn right along the road and after less than 100 metres you will see a footpath sign to the left. Follow this path to descend into the forest for a further 30 minutes or so. This path comes out at another road opposite a car park in the village of Camaldoli.

7. Turn left along the road and you will soon see the two restaurants and cafes on your left – ideal for lunch or refreshments. To return to Moggiona, turn right along the road and follow it for around an hour – uphill initially and then gradually descending towards Moggiona.